A temple to pork Katsu
Tonkatsu, derived from the Japanese ton (pork) and katsuretsu (cutlet), breaded and deep-fried pork, is beloved across Japan and, by now, globally. In Japan, the dish has a reputation as simple, cheap and satisfying salaryman fare. Butagumi, in Tokyo’s Roppongi district, refuses to be confined by this image, as it broadens the spectrum of cuts and breeds compared to what might be commonplace in other similar shops. This is not just another katsu place, but a shokunin’s take on what Katsu could be when elevated by the careful sourcing of ingredients and excellent technique.
Visiting pork pilgrims start by choosing from a wide list of breeds that span essentially the entirety of Japan. Depending on the day’s availability, you might find Hakkin-ton from Iwate Prefecture, Matsuzaka pork from Mie and, of course, the sought-after Kurobuta from Kagoshima, an originally British breed also known as Berkshire pork. While you might be tempted to order a lean cut of tenderloin, it’s the fattier pieces, usually premium sirloin or belly, where Butagumi truly shines and sets itself apart from the competition.
These fattier cuts are not pounded but sliced thick and steak-like before being breaded and deep fried to perfection. Think a golden-brown crust that shatters in crispy-delicate bliss, followed by a bite of juicy pink meat and a beautifully rendered layer of fat that just melts away in your mouth. Dab some of the homemade katsu sauce on there if you’d like…
Each bite at Butagumi has the potential to change your perception of what pork cutlets can and should be in perpetuity. The porky pleasure of the main dish almost distracts from the fact that many of the appetizers, snacks and side dishes are of excellent quality as well. And with the service being second to none, this should be a true bucket list destination for any pork enthusiast out there.